Penetrating vs Sealing Oils: Which Does Your Curls Need

Curly hair thrives on moisture, but keeping that moisture locked in is the real challenge. This is where hair oils come in—but not all oils are created equal. There are two main types of oils used in curly hair care: Penetrating oils and Sealing oils. Understanding the difference between them can help you choose the right products to keep your curls healthy, hydrated, and frizz-free.

What Are Penetrating Oils and Sealing Oils?

Oils serve different purposes depending on their molecular structure. Some oils penetrate deep into the hair shaft to nourish from within, while others form a protective barrier to lock in moisture. Let’s break them down.

Understanding Penetrating Oils – How They Work

Penetrating oils absorb into the hair shaft, delivering hydration and nutrients from the inside out. These oils are best for strengthening and conditioning curls, making them ideal for deep hydration treatments.

Best Penetrating Oils for Curly Hair

• Coconut Oil

Coconut oil is known for its deep hydrating properties and ability to reduce protein loss in hair. It penetrates the hair shaft, restoring moisture and strength, making it ideal for dry, damaged curls that need extra care to stay healthy and strong. Learn more about coconut oil benefits for textured hair 

• Olive Oil

Olive oil helps to soften curls while enhancing hair elasticity. Its rich fatty acids nourish the hair, making it more flexible and less prone to breakage. It also adds shine, leaving curls looking smooth, shiny, and well-defined without weighing them down.

• Avocado Oil

Packed with vitamins A, D, and E, avocado oil is perfect for hair repair and nourishment. It deeply penetrates the hair to promote healthy growth, prevent split ends, and restore vitality to dry, brittle curls. Ideal for restoring moisture and shine to your hair. Discover the hair-transforming benefits of avocado oil here

• Babassu Oil

Babassu oil is lightweight and perfect for low porosity hair. It gently penetrates the hair without leaving a greasy residue. Ideal for hydrating and moisturizing, it helps balance the moisture levels, making it perfect for curls that struggle to absorb heavier oils.

What Are Sealing Oils and How Do They Work?

Sealing oils sit on the hair’s surface, forming a protective layer that locks in moisture. They don’t absorb into the hair but are essential for preventing moisture loss, reducing frizz, and keeping curls defined.

Best Sealing Oils for Curly Hair

• Jojoba Oil

Jojoba oil closely mimics the natural oils produced by the scalp, making it perfect for balancing hydration. It nourishes the scalp while ensuring moisture retention without clogging pores, promoting a healthy environment for strong, well-hydrated curls. Explore the benefits of jojoba oil for luscious curls.

• Castor Oil

Castor oil is thick and perfect for sealing in moisture. Its high ricinoleic acid content helps promote hair growth by stimulating circulation to the scalp while locking in hydration. It's ideal for thickening hair, preventing breakage, and maintaining healthy curls.

• Grapeseed Oil

Grapeseed oil is lightweight and easily absorbed, making it great for frizz control. It smooths the hair cuticle, reduces frizz, and provides a light sheen without weighing curls down. It’s a great choice for those with fine or medium-textured curls seeking smoothness and shine.

• Sweet Almond Oil

Sweet almond oil softens and smooths curls while preventing dryness. Packed with vitamins, it nourishes each strand, leaving curls feeling silky and moisturized. It helps retain softness and shine, making it perfect for taming frizz and enhancing curl definition.

Key Differences: Penetrating vs. Sealing Oils

Key Differences in Function and Application

Which One Does Your Curly Hair Need?

• High Porosity Hair

High porosity hair absorbs moisture quickly, but it tends to lose it just as fast due to the gaps in the cuticle. To maintain hydration, use both penetrating oils like jojoba or coconut to deeply moisturize, followed by sealing oils like castor or avocado to lock it in. Curious about high porosity hair? Check out this article for curly hair care tips and tutorials.

• Low Porosity Hair

Low porosity hair struggles to absorb moisture because the cuticles are tightly packed. Lighter oils like babassu or argan oil penetrate more easily, helping to hydrate. Use a small amount of sealing oil afterward to prevent moisture from evaporating too quickly.

• Medium Porosity Hair

Medium porosity hair offers a balance, absorbing moisture well without excessive loss. It can thrive with a mix of both penetrating and sealing oils. The specific needs depend on the season—lighter oils for warmer months, and heavier oils for colder weather.

The Perfect Blend: Oils That Penetrate & Seal in Moisture

Consider using oils that offer the best of both worlds: they penetrate the hair shaft to nourish and hydrate from within, while also sealing in moisture to protect the outer layer. These oils are perfect for curly hair, keeping it moisturized and healthy without weighing it down. Here are some NeoCurly hair elixirs that do just that:

Red Flawless Serum

This luxurious serum is formulated with Argan Oil to deeply nourish and hydrate, Hydrolyzed Keratin to strengthen and smooth the hair shaft, Kawa Extract for enhanced shine, and Rosemary Leaf Extract to stimulate the scalp and promote healthy hair growth.

Sunflower Nourishing Oil

A rich blend of Beeswax, Sunflower Seed Oil, Jojoba Seed Oil, Argan Oil, and Avocado Oil to hydrate, seal in moisture, and promote overall hair health. This nourishing oil deeply conditions curls while adding shine and softness without weighing them down.

The Right Way to Use Penetrating & Sealing Oils

How and When to Use Penetrating Oils for Maximum Benefits

• Pre-poo Treatment

Apply penetrating oils before washing to create a barrier that prevents your hair from becoming dry and stripped of natural moisture. Massage into dry hair, leave for 15-30 minutes, then wash as usual for nourished strands.

• Deep Conditioning Boost

Add a penetrating oil like coconut or argan to your deep conditioner for an extra dose of hydration. This combination strengthens and moisturizes hair while enhancing the benefits of your regular conditioner, leaving hair soft and shiny.

• Overnight Hydration

For intense moisture, apply a small amount of penetrating oil before bed. Gently massage it into your hair, then cover with a satin or silk scarf. In the morning, rinse or style as usual, revealing deeply nourished, hydrated curls.

The Right Way to Use Sealing Oils for Maximum Moisture Retention

• After Leave-in Conditioner

Apply sealing oils after your leave-in conditioner to lock in moisture. Sealing oils like castor or avocado help prevent moisture from evaporating, keeping your hair hydrated, shiny, and smooth throughout the day.

• LOC vs. LCO Method

The LOC (Liquid, Oil, Cream) and LCO (Liquid, Cream, Oil) methods are great ways to maximize hydration. By layering these products in the right order, you ensure moisture is trapped in your curls, keeping them soft and nourished all day long.

• Refresh Curls Between Washes

Lightly apply sealing oils between washes to tame frizz and enhance shine. A few drops massaged into dry curls can give your hair a refreshed look, while helping to maintain moisture and prevent it from looking dull or dry throughout the day.

Final Thoughts – Choosing the Right Oils for Your Curls

Both penetrating oils and sealing oils play a crucial role in curly hair care. While penetrating oils provide deep hydration, sealing oils ensure that moisture stays put. The key is to find the right balance based on your hair type and porosity. Whether you’re looking to strengthen your curls, fight frizz, or boost hydration, incorporating the right oils into your routine can make all the difference.

Experiment with different oils and application methods to discover what works best for your unique curls. Healthy, hydrated curls start with the right oil—so choose wisely!